Vatnajökull is the largest of Iceland’s trio of national parks. Centred on one of Europe’s largest glaciers, it attracts outdoor enthusiasts and sightseers keen to get an eyeful of one of the country’s most impressive natural landforms. Drive along the country’s south coast on the ring road and it looms large beside you, ever present.
The area was designated a national park in 2008, officially encompassing Jökulsárgljúfur and Skaftafell from that point on. In July 2019, UNESCO recognised Vatnajökull National Park as a World Heritage Site. Little wonder, then, that it is such a huge draw for international visitors who’ve come to admire Iceland’s extraordinary landscapes.
Vatnajökull National Park is named after Vatnajökull, a vast glacier. The national park extends across an area of 13,952 km2 while the ice cap itself covers an area of about 7,900 km2. The ice averages 380 metres thick, though in places it is almost a kilometre deep. Approximately thirty outlet glaciers protrude like gnarly fingers from the main body of ice, including that which dominates the landscape behind Fjallsárlón. These glaciers are compacted into blue ice, split into crevasses or become riddled with volcanic ash.Within the park, you’ll also find a clutch of exquisite glacial lagoons, the most famous of which are near neighbours: Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon and Fjallsárlón Glacier Lagoon. Glaciers travel slowly downhill, ending in a zone of ablation. Here, pieces of the ice break off at the snout or end of the glacier as temperatures are slightly higher. They fall into icy lakes where they bob around photogenically before eventually melting or being carried out to sea by the current.
The national park boasts an incredible diversity when it comes to geology. As well as active volcanoes, you’ll encounter ancient lava fields from eruptions that took place in the distant past and caldera lakes that fill explosion craters. There are outwash plains, ridges and moss-clad canyons such as Mulagljufur canyon created by glacial floods. Beautiful waterfalls, among them Svartifoss and Dettifoss, litter the park. Rhyolite mountains help create a colourful landscape that’s one of the most beautiful wildernesses on the planet.
Seasonal ice caves also lurk underneath and within the ice in Vatnajökull National Park. During the warmer months, meltwater finds its way into the cracks and crevasses within the body of the glacier and wriggles down with the aid of gravity. This water creates ripples on the ice and hollows out impressive caverns that are often a translucent and vivid blue.
They’re a dazzling sight and it’s no surprise that super jeep tours that deliver travellers to these hidden wonders are so popular. At Fjallsarlon you will find the VATNAJOKULL PREMIUM ICE CAVER TOUR that is a small group experience. The chance to hike across the glacier’s surface to a sub-glacial ice cave is a remarkable experience. As spring approaches, the rising temperatures make these glacier caves unstable and they remain untouched until late autumn.This alone would be impressive, but beneath this vast glacial shield there’s also a hidden landscape of volcanic craters and mountain peaks. Among them is Hvannadalshnúkur, the country’s highest mountain whose peak reaches a height of 2109 metres above sea level. A sizeable proportion of its flanks is hidden beneath the ice.
Several volcanoes are also concealed beneath Vatnajökull’s surface. From time to time, sub-glacial eruptions melt the ice, creating significant glacial outburst floods known to locals as jökulhlaups. These can have deadly consequences, and are not taken lightly. Fortunately, they are rare and forecasting techniques are largely accurate.
One of the most active volcanoes beneath Vatnajökull is Grímsvötn, which last erupted properly in 2011. Bárðarbunga forms part of the same system and is almost as active. It last woke up in 2014 when an effusive eruption took place. It’s worth noting that notorious Eyjafjallajökull is not, however, and neither is Katla which sits beneath the much smaller Mýrdalsjökull glacier.
The sheer scale of Vatnajökull National Park and the variety of its landforms and landscapes make this a diverse playground. As you make your way along the south coast towards Fjallsárlón, you might consider stopping off to make a short hike to a waterfall such as Svartifoss which boasts impressive basalt columns. Further to the north, Askja is a caldera within the volcanic landscape of the Dyngjufjöll Mountains.
In contrast, glaciers can be dangerous environments, so it’s important to visit on a tour in order to be safe. One of the most accessible ways to appreciate Vatnajökull’s icy landscape is by booking a boat tour on Fjallsárlón lagoon during summer. Board a ZODIAC BOAT and head out onto the water to get a closer look at the icebergs and also the glacier itself.At Fjallsárlón we also offer guided ice hikes for intrepid travellers. This requires a reasonable level of fitness but is possible for most travellers – the minimum age to join our tour is 14. Strap on crampons and pull on a helmet and the guide will lead you on a thrilling adventure up onto Fjallsjökull glacier. It’s a peaceful, untouched landscape and one which is sure to make a lasting impression.
Sub-glacial ice caves are reachable during the colder months. These are transient landforms and the precise nature and location of such caves varies from year to year as summer melting transforms the underground landscape. Opting for a guided tour is the only way to visit – it’s too risky on your own – but these magnificent spaces have a jaw-dropping beauty and are a must if you’re visiting Iceland in winter.
One of the most exhilarating ways to experience the park is to ride over the surface of a glacier on a snowmobile. Super jeeps with massive tyres can traverse the lower reaches of the glacier and deposit their passengers higher up. Kitted out with warm overalls and thick-soled boots, a guide leads the way over the ice, skilfully skirting crevasses and stopping periodically to share information about Vatnajökull.
It’s a considerable distance between Vatnajokull National Park and Keflavik Airport or Reykjavik. In theory (particularly in summer) it’s possible to visit more accessible parts of the park such as those close to the ring road after a five hour drive; you’ll see day trips advertised online. In winter, however, inclement weather can lead to road closures which might temporarily put plans on hold.
No matter when you plan to come, if you’re keen on arranging a boat trip, booking a guided Glacier Hike, visiting an ice cave or riding a snowmobile, you’d have to make some difficult choices if you intended to make a return journey within a single day. It’s a long day and if you’re fatigued, you won’t get the same enjoyment out of the activities you choose, let alone the return drive.That’s why most travellers realise that this part of Iceland warrants more time and plan to stay over for at least one night. There are a number of campsites, lodges and hotels within or very close to Fjallsárlón and the rest of the park that would make convenient overnight stops or bases for a longer stay. You could also consider a nearby town such as Höfn, a fishing port located further to the east, where there are also a clutch of decent eateries.
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Fjallsárlón
